All Moorea All the Time

6/15/2017

This morning we woke up restless and moved to the next cove East.  Passe Irihonu on the north coast of Moorea is a narrow one.  And the anchorage area was small.  But we were the only boat so that was no problem. Interesting stuff on shore.  We walked to the local grocery.  They had AC!  And birds flying around in their store.  They were after the baguettes!  Sacré Bleu!

Nancy seared some fresh tuna.  Awesome!  stiff rain on the boat late that night.  I love that sound.

6/16/2017

More restlessness.  We motored making power and water to Passe Tareu.  It provides access to Opunohu Bay.  Near the passe there is a shallower spot, ranging 20-40 feet.  For some reason everybody and their sea dog anchors there.  Probably 25 boats.  And the rest of the bay is vacant.  It’s kinda deep.  60 feet can be found.  Just a puzzle though.  Anchoring in a big pile seems odd.  Anyway we retreated to Cook’s Bay because they have groceries within reach of the dinghy.  And there are only 6 boats in the whole thing.  Nice.  I think it’s Pizza Night!

6/17/2017

We are enjoying reading in the cockpit punctuated by the odd swim.  But today we walked over to the Opunohu Bay next door.  Gotta get physical sometime.  The sun didn’t get us.  Grateful for some clouds.

Physicality deserves food!  Some of the restaurants will come and collect customers in a van if you call them.  So we did.  Went to HolySteak.  I put on shoes and socks.  Its been awhile!  Predictably awesome.  They had some live music.  We are finding that a bit rare here.  Not like La Cruz Mexico at all.  Many restaurants there had music.  Interesting.

6/17/2017

Today it was hike to the Tiki Park.  There are some archeological ruins up the valley.  Makes for a nice walk in the forest.  At some point we decided it was too far to go without water.  Will revisit soon.

We invited our neighbors from Southern Light over for horsdevours.  Which we devoured.  We met them previously in Papeete.  Nice bunch.  Their schooner was built by the captain.  From 69-72.  This is the 4th time he’s sailed her from New Zealand to Vancouver BC.  He’s only 75.  And his Sr crew is 76.  They have two relative rookies on board as well.  One with no experience.  One with a bit.  But they were a good team.  And they were tested. 60 kts max wind they saw on their 30 odd day passage from New Zealand to here.  They are all experienced now.

Pictures!

We’ve been neglecting to add photos to the blog because the wifi is unreliable. I will try to show you a few of mine today. First, Rangiroa:

Sunrise                                     Look at that color!                         Rose at sunset


Lulu                                                         View from Gilligan’s Island


A feast on the Big Green Egg for a lovely evening

Tikehau:

Well, that took my entire battery. More later.

Return to Moorea

6/13/2017

I can testify.   Les Trois Brasseurs has a fine IPA.  And the stainless steel guy delivered the repaired part last night.  nicely done.  Metali’nox Stéphane Gerand (689) 87 77 02 77.  highly recommended for stainless work and service.  nice pu and delivery!

Later in the evening we were back at the dock enjoying the night air in the cockpit.  A neighbor approaches us and asks if we have a corkscrew.  We are on a boat called Spill The Wine!  We have about a hundred corkscrews. We took care of him.

The sun came up and I could not help but notice that it had rained in the night.  And I had left the companion way lid open.  No Bueno.  The stairs from below to the cockpit are carpeted.  And mold was on their near horizon.  We cut up an old rug from our house for these stairs years ago.  Bruce the Dog had a tough time as the stairs are steep.  Carpet helped.  But he has gone by some years ago and now the carpet will be joining him in the great hereafter.

Next was off to the Mobil to collect the propane tanks.  They were ready.  A miracle.  Strap them to the bicycle and cart them back home.  Fill the water tank and check out.  Hasta La vista Papeete!  Back to Moorea.

The sail over was pretty smooth.  Partly due to minimal wind.  So we motored half way.  But I’ve got about a 3 month supply of fuel on board so what the hey!  Anchored in Cook’s Bay again.  So quiet.  So peaceful.  So dark.  Nice change as Papeete was none of these things.  But it was charming in other ways.

We feasted on grilled duck breast and French wine.  Another good day.

6/14/2017

We woke this morning and there was an onshore 15kt breeze.  It had been offshore last night.  So now we are on the other side of our anchor and it’s kinda getting shallow.  We reanchored across the bay to hide from the wind and the shallows.  I’ll sleep better.

We have a Canadian boat nearby and her captain is coming over and I am getting ready to toast up a prime rib.  Meat selection at the grocery is interesting.  Prime rib and filet mignon.  Where did the rest of the cow go?

Reaping Electrons

20170610_144643

This is what a shore power connection looks like in French Polynesia.

6/11/2017

Day of rest.  The heat really takes the wind out of your sails!  We visited a neighbor boat for happy hour.  They are in the middle of a round the world tour sponsored by their boat manufacturer, Oyster.  Fun people.

6/12/2017

Things are open and I head to the electrical parts store.  And lo, they had what I wanted.  Miracle.  Even found some propane in a 16oz can.  Never thought I’d see one of those again!  Back to the boat and assemble the parts.  Detach the charger from the existing electrical system and mount a French style plug on the charger’s wire.  Plug it in and voila! 40 amps comes pounding into the battery Bank.  We’re not going to be at a lot of marinas but still, this is a handy feature.

I just spoke to the stainless guy.  He says he’ll deliver tonight at 730pm.  Awesome.  All the pieces are falling into place.

Tonight it is 2 for 1 at a local microbrewery.  Rumor has it they have an IPA.  We’ll just have to see about that!

Bon Appetit!

6/12/17

We are IN Pape’ete, Tahiti. I mean, the marina is right downtown. This place should be visited when you have access to A/C and a pool. It’s HUMID. At least living on the water, the insects don’t bother you as much.

There are advantages to being in a city, though: there are stores where you can buy boat parts, hardware, etc., that don’t exist in a village. Top of our list is getting our propane tanks refilled, and one of our bimini supports needs welding. Then we will head back to Moorea.

Pape’ete is quite modern and very French. There are markets, bistros, and boutiques. I already took care of obtaining the obligatory souvenirs: a pareo & some black pearls. Of course, when I travel, my favorite diversion is the food. Chris found out about some food trucks near the ferry terminal. We went there last night and had sumptuous seared red tuna. There is a large market downtown that you have to hit around 6:00 am to really get anything. There are also Carrefour supermarkets. If you have ever been to France, you’ve probably seen these. The food selection is stunning. There is a cheese department. There is a long refrigerated aisle of nothing but charcuterie. You can get a two-foot long fresh baguette for about $0.50. I picked up a beautiful package of the tiniest (1 cm sq) raviolis for $2.00.

This morning, we sat in the cockpit while it poured around us, and Chris attacked a pamplemousse . These are also called Asian grapefruits or pomelo, and you can sometimes find them at Uwajimaya. They take some work, but they are worth it. The skin has to be cut. Under that is about an inch thick of pith. Then, you have to remove the tough membrane around each slice. But when you taste it, you realize this is what grapefruit aspire to be.

A couple nights ago, Chris did a spectacular job of grilling a big prime rib steak that I had slathered with roasted garlic paste. We still have some duck breasts in the freezer. And I have a couple of bottles of French Rosé. I think we’ll survive.

Give me Amps!

6/10/2017

Time to get electrical.  Spill the Wine has a 40 amp battery charger that came with it.  Its not in service as the inverter charger has taken over charging the batteries.  But the inverter charger needs 110v.  And they have 220 here.  The original charger however will work on anywhere from 85v to 260v.  So I’m restoring the wiring on the orig charger so I can plug into the 220 dock power.  Solar has a hard time keeping up with a hard working refrigerator!  Redoing the wiring took most of today.  Shop for parts Monday.

Tonight we went to the Roullotes.  This is a gathering of food trucks.  They put out tables and make it happen.  All kinds of offerings.  And we were hungry!

Enter the Papeete

6/5-7/2017

There are about 5 boats in this corner of the bay.  We are anchored off Club Bali Hai hotel.   We had a sunset dinner at an odd restaurant that seemed to be sponsored by Veuve Clicquot champagne.  Branded stuff everywhere.  Gift shop with more branded stuff.   We had rose.   And they were serving the best beef I’d seen in months!  And the sun went down on a bay with scattered sailboats.  Ok ok… but it’s one of my favorite things!

We found a pizza place another night.  This may sound mundane but where we have been the past month did not have much variety.  Great tuna.  Served with whatever sides they had not run out of between supply boats.  Kinda fun to have choices for a change.

Time to face Papeete.  Bright lights.  Big city.  That’s where galley/outboard fuel is.  That is where you can get stainless steel welded and I have a small job needs doing.  Need to finish govt paperwork too.  So on 6/7 we departed Moorea headed east to Tahiti.

It is a 15 miles trip.  We motored to make water and charge the batteries.  Seas very random and choppy.   And this did not bother Nancy at all.  I am in awe.  We enter the lagoon a few miles south of Papeete.  We can sneak up on it that way.  No available slips so we picked up a mooring ball at Marina Taina.  This place is a spectacle.  There are some of the finest sailboats I have ever seen here.  Well in excess of 100 feet.  Probably a dozen in that category.  And then there is the mooring ball field.  Tough crowd.  Some look like they should not be floating.  Quite a few in fact.  Some have bits missing.  No boom.  No mast.  It’s like a graveyard.  Then scattered about there are a few boats like ours that actually function.  Crazy place.  And not inexpensive.  $80 night for a 40 foot boat.  I go to check in.  They have two rates.  Weekly and monthly.  And I’m just here for a couple days.  So they decide I can stay for free.  Did I mention this was a crazy place

6/8-9/2017

Time to get diesel.   We take on 44 gallons.  Then we motor from the NW  side up to the North and Papeete.  Moorage found in the harbor.

One project is to find a stainless steel welding guy.  One of my bimini tubed is cracked and needs attention.  Papeete is supposed to be good for that.

You can get propane tanks filled here but with butane.  Usually drop it off at Mobile station and pick it up in a couple or three days.  We really dont want to spend that much time in Papeete.  I read that if you take your tanks to the distribution center at the pier you can get them filled same day.  So I do.  Arrive 2pm.  Guy says we close 2pm.  Bring those tanks back tomorrow we open at 6am.  Ok.  I return and a different guy is working.  He says no.  They don’t fill tanks retail anymore.  Never mind what the guy said yesterday.  He’s got a notebook with explanation in English.  And natch ya gotta take it to the Mobile!  It’s Friday and I schlep my tanks on my bicycle to Mobile.  Guy says maybe Monday but probably Tuesday.  Pfft!  Oh well.  Papeete is pretty cool.  We’ll dig it for a few more days.

We head to the post office to get a sim card for Polynesia.   That was pretty easy.  Now I can call locally for a reasonable fee.  Speaking French on the phone… wish me luck!  I call the stainless steel guy and let him know I can be reached now.  He lets me know that he’ll pick up the tubing Sunday and haul it back Monday repaired.  Sounds like it should work…  🙂

That’s no mooring ball…

6/3-4/17

So today we get the boat organized to travel.  Deflate/Stow the dinghy.  Stow the outboard.  Clean up anything in the boat likely to fly about in a seaway.  As we motor out of the anchorage I manage to scrape a piling.  Auspicious beginning!  We take Passe Tuheiava at about 330pm.  Pretty calm today.  2.5 kts current in our favor.  Bit different than the ride in.  Then we anchor, swim, and nap.  No hurry to depart really.  Our best guess is that if we leave at 8pm we should arrive at dawn in Moorea.  No point in getting there any sooner than daylight.

Nancy made baguette sandwiches.  Awesome.  We raise the anchor just before 8 and drift off West while I secure the dinghy at the bow.  Unfurl a jib and we are off!  Predictably the seas are quite calm.  We still have Tikihau island between us and the wind.   As we get out from behind this the seas get more active.  Prediction was for 9 to 14 kts and swell 4 ft 8 seconds apart.  The waves are crazy random.  The winds peaked at 25 kts 4 hours after we downloaded our departure forecast.  Not totally impressed with Predictwind.com forecasting yet.

We sail on through the night.  Winds mostly upper teens.  Seas probably were 4 feet but the wave pattern was the worst sort of random.  But we’re moving along at 4 to 6 kts.  Historically this would have added up to Nancy’s nightmare sailing.  But tonight she is less worried about it than I am.  She has made such an effort to be here with me and deserves better conditions than this.  But I guess better conditions will come another day.  And mal de mer appears to have been crushed by Stugeron.  Thank you Nancy for making the effort to share some of this with me!  I will love her forever.  Of course I was going to anyway!  🙂

We took the 9 to midnight watch together.  I took 12 to 3 and Nancy took 3 to 6.  My watch was busy.  Squalls came along and one minute there was too much sail up and not enough the next.  Plenty of furlings and unfurlings!  Nancy had better luck.  The wind stabilized for her.

Dawn shows us a beautiful sky with many cumulus clouds.  Which one will rain on us?  Let’s just say the deck is less salty after last night.  Baguette and jam and coffee.  Boat is moving so much you can’t put your coffee down!  So I put it down me hatch…

Midmorning the seas have calmed down and so has the wind.  Now in the 8-10 zone with some risk of not keeping them filled as the boat moves about.  But it’s a fine day.  We relax and read.  Seas are now no rowdier than a windy day at anchor.  🙂

This moderate pattern continues through the day and night.  We arrive at Cook’s Bay in Moorea at about 10am.  Just in time to hit the grocery before they close at 11am.  And they had… Lots of fruit and veggies.  We are certainly not in the Touamotus/Marquesas any more.  But they were out of baguettes… the late bird  gets no baguette!

As we approach the mooring field I bark out orders!  “Grab that mooring ball Nancy!”  Well bugger all its not a mooring ball, it’s a coconut.  Good news is the anchor still works!  And a good thing I was kidding about barking at Nancy…. bad plan…20170605_120200

Tahiti Can Wait

6/2/17

Yesterday we finally broke down and mounted the outboard. It’s a long row to the pier! Especially upwind. And there is still a bit of propane left. We met neighbors today, Carl and Annie. Canadians that have been out for 2 years. They joined us for lunch at Ninamu Resort. This AUS guy built this maybe 15 years ago. 7 rooms. Very nicely done. And it’s on its own island. Still no sign of Gilligan. Lunch was smoked fish and salad. Beautiful! Such a fine day we missed leaving for Tahiti. Oh well. There’s always tomorrow. 🙂 The wind/sea predictions are all about the same for the next few days. Which is to say favorable leaning towards gentle. Should be perfect for Nancy’s first overnight passage. Ahem. Not like the last attempt. That one not so perfect…

Bounding Main Indeed

5/31
So, let me just say this: 30 – 35 knot winds, 2 – 3 meter swells, wind forward of the beam, no horizon (dark).

We had been putting up with a great deal of swell in the anchorage in Rangiroa for a few days, and we were both tired of it. We even started to sleep perpendicular in the bed, so the rocking would be head-to-toe instead of side-to-side. Also, we were getting low on LPG, which runs both the dinghy motor and the stove. Chris tried to contact Mr. Christian to see if the weather boded well, but caught the tide and let it roll. If this was a disaster movie, you would think “Don’t do it!” Right?

As the sun went down and the ride got rougher, I didn’t lose faith in either the boat or Chris. It’s just that I was blowing my cookies, and I couldn’t stand watch. Not that just standing watch was what those seas called for. When we finally anchored outside the pass to Tikehau, I was happy we both made it through that. It has taken a couple of days to get my whole body back to “normal.”

Chris was able to make a connection with Jody in his sailboat Strider, and he showed Chris how to use some software he had to predict things like wind, swell, and wave periods BEFORE taking off on a trip. We are doing that now, trying to help me decide if I will sail or fly to Tahiti. Yes, I still may sail.

6/1
Chris is running models of the wind & sea state to determine when we should try again for Tahiti. Lesson learned: don’t sail without hearing from the weather experts.

We really like it here in Tikehau. Population is only about 400. Several pensions (like bed & breakfasts or small all-inclusive places) with diving, two grocery stores. But it’s lovely. We went to a nearby pension for lunch yesterday. There was so much food, and even dessert! Not cheap, but I think we can splurge every now and then. We have some food put away from Rangiroa, so we are good there. Tonight we will put a duck breast on the big green egg. There is a bakery! – fresh baguettes & croissants, and even pizza.

We went by the store this afternoon to replenish our beer supply. I also picked up a lovely cucumber & a bottle of Côte de Provence Rosé. I’m getting more comfortable with my French. On the way back to the dinghy, a Polynesian couple invited us to sit with them, and they played guitar & ukulele for us, to welcome us to the island. Their neighbor lopped off a couple of coconuts for us to take back to the boat. What delightful people. I could come back here.

Hot Bread Guy

5/30/17 continued.

We stop in to pick up our bread after 90 minutes but it’s not done. So we wait with the other customers.  Hot bread guy might be 25.  Shirtless with an apron from the waist down.  He could be the mayor.  Everyone must come to him for their bread.  (Photos later.  This internet connection will not deliver the bandwidth necessary for Hot Bread Guy!)  One patron waiting smokes cigarettes that he rolls from a package covered with skulls and the admonition “Fumé Tué” (smoke kills).  Half dozen locals set up a pleasant chatter.  I get some of their French.  Interestingly I understand islanders speaking French much better than people from France.  They speak more slowly maybe?  Some of the patrons collect 20 baguettes. He must have made 200. The local resorts no doubt like to serve fresh bread. This island runs on tourism and fishing.

We snag something else from the grocery. Then we walk towards the beach where we left the dingy. A guy in a pickup pulls up and offers us a lift. Turns out Serge works at a small resort just onshore from the boat. He suggests we visit his place and consider a tour/snorkel/BBQ. He drops us at the dinghy and I realize I have lost track of some of the groceries. Probably left behind. Serge insists on taking me back to the store to collect the items. And the store staff had them just like he told me they would. 🙂

I row us back to the boat in the dinghy I got from my friend Tom Hill (thank you Tom!) and we swim and enjoy a light dinner on Spill The Wine.

5/31/17

We row to shore for early lunch.  Find our way to Serge’s place Tikihau Village.  Great lunch and as good of internet access as I have seen in French Polynesia.  Not saying much eh?   Then back to the boat for swim, relax and attempt to get this blog updated through the straw of an internet connection we have here.  Be patient grasshopper….  🙂

A Gentleman Never Sets Sail To Weather…

And I am revealed.  We ended up to weather.  Ay yi yi!

5/28/17

We’ve studied the tides and the weather. Today looks like we go at 130pm or so. Break down the dinghy. Stow loose items. Make water. Move fuel into the primary tank. Wind in the lagoon is fierce at times getting over 20 knots. Boats at anchor don’t love that. Front comes through with wind and rain. Then very quiet. Are we in the eye of a small storm? Perhaps. Wind comes back but more like 15 knots. Nancy asks me “Am I ever going to be sorry I did this crossing to Tahiti?” I wish I knew the answer to this. But I don’t. She does not have to cross. Our plans can change at our will. She decides to give it a go. 40 hours estimated time in transit. Hold on tight. We hoist anchor and head for the pass. Motoring upwind into stiff seas and wind. Making about 2 knots. I could have pushed it harder but nah. Still at 2000 rpm I’d usually be about 5 knots. Shows what a little headwind and waves can do.

Into the pass we go with a 2 or 3 knot current behind us as the tide finishes it’s ebb. Large standing waves greet us at the outer opening of the pass. Now that was more than I expected! Spill The Wine does not care. This is what she does. We escape the chaos on the outside of the pass and head downwind. 15 knots behind us and 6 foot rollers disappearing under the stern. This I think is what fair winds and following seas are all about. Spill The Wine is moving about but gently. Much more gentle than getting beat up by the seas and wind at anchor. Still it’s something to get used to. Nancy is fearless and settles down to assimilate the new rhythm.

We turn the corner and head west in the lee of Rangiroa. Easy seas and generous wind. As the sun goes down we get West of Rangiroa and are now facing the full weight of the swell. Worse yet it’s blowing 20, 25, sometimes 30. And the wind gets forward of the beam as we follow our course to Papeete. That’s the last place you want the wind in these conditions. The sea state is bad. I am not digging it and would not aspire to conditions like this. And this is quite toxic for Nancy. It would be presto Mal de Mer for a lot of people. My first thought was we could divert for Tikihau. But I decided that was a bad option as we would arrive in the middle of the night. As conditions deteriorate and Nancy feels absolutely no better I rethink. We are so far out now that if we head back to Tikehau I would only need to chart a vaguely inefficient course to get us there by dawn. We are 30 hours out from Papeete or 10 hours out from Tikihau. I don’t want to arrive any earlier than dawn to a strange place than that. So Tikehau becomes our Go.

5/29/17

I sail through the night.  Nancy is stable but not in a good place for sure.  It’s mostly downwind now so the ride improves.  I want to go slow so I shorten sail.  Really don’t want to arrive in the dark.  Still too fast.  Put the sails away.  Now making 4 kts with no sails at all.  Just the windage of the boat.  Dodger, solar panels and bimini canvas.  This will still get us there too early but ok, lets make it work.

On arrival I get set to run the pass. Great. All the lights are in the right place. Ready to go. But it’s 4am and damn dark. No good. So I furl the sails and let’s just drift and I can get a nap. It’s been a long night. Set my alarm for 45 minutes or so. When it rings we have not gone far. Our drift was less than a knot. Motor up and line up on the pass again. As I approach the pass I see a sailboat anchored to one side of the pass. What the heck. I’ll radio that guy and see if he’s listening. He is! Bit of a surprise at dawn. This turns out to be Jody on sailboat Strider from Mooloolaba AUS. He’s been to this island many times and explains that the strong easterly winds are causing a strong current to exit the pass 24/7. Until the winds settle it’s not going to be passable. He recommends anchoring next to Strider and waiting. Sounds like the path of least resistance to me. its been a long night and Nancy and I are beat.

Drop the anchor in 15 ft and it sets well. Boat hangs downwind from that in about 20 feet. Sea state on the lee or downwind shore of the island is so much nicer than what we’ve been experiencing. Walk in the park. And time for napping. After the sun comes up it becomes clear the pass is rowdy. Standing waves due to current are in the pass all day. And it’s still blowing 20 or more. But as anchorages go this is pretty smooth water. Very comfortable.

Jody invites me over for a tour of a weather forecasting program called PredictWind. I have it already but there is nothing like some guidance on a strange bit of software. It was hot enough that maybe some snorkeling would be good. It was. 🙂

Mid afternoon a 46 foot catamaran arrives. Tries to cross the tidal stream and as soon as her bows get into the current she gets immediately spun down current. They reconsider taking the pass and anchor.

Nancy and I spent a nice calm night here. Weather forecast predicts less wind tomorrow. We’ll see.

5/30/17

Mr Christian tells me that bout 9am there will be a high tide. That might blunt the current. Jody thinks the wind will moderate too. So that sounds like a good time to take the pass.

It was. We crossed the stream to set up an approach on the North margin of the pass. Decently deep there and just out of the max current. Just before we head in a catamaran is heading out. He is right in the middle of Max current. Looked like a heck of a ride! He reports 5 kts of current carrying him out.

In we go.  Strider goes first.  Spill The Wine is next.  We motor up against the flow on the margin of the pass.  Be patient and it works.  At times I was making as little as 0.5 kts and sometimes less! But we found our way into the lagoon after a maybe 30 minute transit.  Nice sail down the lagoon to the village of Tuherahera.  Great anchorage with good protection.

We split a leftover game hen for lunch and take the dinghy to shore. A resident gives us permission to leave our dinghy on their beach and tells us how to walk to town.

We find a grocery and get a few supplies. The cashier tells us where to get bread. We walk down to a park. There is a school with adults playing Polynesian guitar and adults and children singing. Really nice. A nice French couple clarifies the directions to the boulangerie. We find it and are told the loaves will be ready in 90 minutes. We visit the pier. Two teenagers are listening to French pop/rap. Every once in awhile they giggle no doubt when the lyrics get rude. A supply ship comes in while we watch. Hard to believe they stuffed this maybe 150 foot freighter up the little turbulent pass we just transited this morning. We learn later that it returns every week or two and the grocery stores (2 of them) stock up.

 

Keep your Big Green Egg Hot

5/27/17
BBQ chicken on the egg last night. Leftovers should be awesome! Today we are getting packed to make the crossing to Tahiti. About 200 miles. Slack tide should be about 1pm tomorrow which you want to make your way through the channel from the lagoon to the sea. Tiputa Passe is its name. And when the tide is running you would not want to put your boat through it. Current and standing waves.

Maintenance

5/25/17

Yesterday was sheer laziness and reading.  Those days are good too!  Today was laundry.  Sheets.  Pillowcases.  Shirts.  Shorts.  No socks.  🙂

You wash in salt water.  Rinse in salt water.  Then wring out and rinse in fresh water.  Wring out again and hang it all over the boat exterior and let it dry in the wind without any of it blowing away.  There may be better ways to do boat laundry, I just made this up.  It worked. Then I took me poor rusty bicycle down the road to the bank.  The only atm on the island is by the airport.  That done I went a kilometer further and checked out what might pass as a hardware store.  Still searching for solution to propane tanks with US fittings.  Closed.  2pm.  Something like siesta when a lot of things are closed mid day is going on here.  I need to get in sync with the local rhythm here.  That search can continue another day. 

I stopped at another store and the guy there worked his limited English, I worked my limited French, and he introduced me to some Polynesian vocabulary.  After I got across to him what I was up to propane wise (figuring out a way to fill US propane tanks from French Polynesia Butane tanks that have totally different fittings) he shook his head and said enjoy Papeete.  That is the capitol of French Polynesia on the island of Tahiti.  He seemed to think that was the only place I was likely to find the adapters necessary.  S’ok.  I’m not out of gaz yet!  I think I’ll get by. 

I was hot by the time I got back to the boat.  And the lagoon was just as happy to see me as Nancy was.  A hot salty man became a cool one.

Nancy in French Polynesia

5/20
The sun comes up every day at 5:30 am and sets at 5:30 pm. It seems to run backwards, until I get used to the sun’s arc across the north instead of the south. We spend our days not wearing much and not too occupied with activity. Mostly, we read. Once a day we go to shore for wifi, food, or just to be on land. After living in a condo more than 100 stairs above the street, I’m not getting much exercise here. It is 85 degrees, and so is the water. We drop into the lagoon when it gets too hot. There is usually a breeze. It rains occasionally, but never for long.

Everyone here is very friendly, greeting us with “Bonjour!” or “Ça va?”, even when they pass us on dinghies. My French is coming back to me, so it is easier to engage.

The boat has A LOT of food still on it – mostly beans (canned & dried). I’m told it will all have to be disposed of when we get to New Zealand, so I’m trying to be creative. The little grocery store has the basics, plus some lovely French delicacies. What vegetables they have are mostly frozen. We can’t figure out why they don’t grow them here. I really want a fresh tomato.

Living on the boat is easier than I expected. Mostly because I’m with Chris. We are both brown. Our hair is in a perpetual state of wind-blown – his is tipped blond. We have few needs or worries. It’s hard not to be happy. I can’t believe I’m really here.

I have a tendency to get terribly motion sick. Whenever I start feeling queasy, I take some medication we found in Mexico. After several days, I haven’t needed it anymore!

We are sitting in the cockpit drinking wine while Chris plays guitar. The stars are brilliant above us. I’m beginning to think I will try to sail with him to Tahiti instead of flying.