Welcome to the Society Islands


The 29th we relaxed just the two of us.  Thank you.  The 30th two of our hitchhikers came back on board and brought what appeared to be 1/4 of a tuna.  We put that on the egg for sure.  July 1st two more people joined the crew for…. more Tuna!  Nancy and I took the boat out of the bay that day to get a different view of the island.  Pizza Night upon our return.  July 2nd our guests departed and we once again relax just the two of us.  One of the crew we probably won’t see again for some time.  He’s off to crew on a boat in the Mediterranean that is heading for a possible NW passage in the Arctic.  Unusual opportunity for sure.  The other 3 will all be rejoining the boat at Bora Bora to cross to the Cook islands to the west.


We walked a couple miles down to the next bay today and found lunch and a place that does laundry.  And delivers when it is done!  Yay!

They don’t celebrate that here!  Wait until the 14th.  That if the anniversary of the French Revolution. We’ll see if the Polynesians give a hoot about that!

Nancy took a long walk down the shore to a pretty village around the point  I took a bike ride up the valley to a lookout 800 feet up.  Nice view.  My poor rusty bicycle is not loving the salt environment.  Time for more love and lubrication to keep it going!

The bay is filling with Oyster brand boats.  There are a dozen and more on the way.  They are on a circumnavigation tour together.  And they all look kinda the same.  I was not aware inbreeding affected boats.  Anyway getting crowded.  We are off to Papeete again to pick up crew for the 16 hour trip to Huahine we will do next week. We motored across right into a 20 kts headwind.  But it was still a good day.  Arrived Papeete marina and got about the last slip available.

We were in the cockpit after a day of boat chores and food truck dinner.  My food truck dinner was veal, cooked on a spit in the parking lot.  Recommended. Relaxing and I’m trying to learn Dock of the Bay on my guitar.  Not a hard one but I’ve never done it!  We were comparing two catamarans across from our dock.  One was big and fat.  That would mean comfy but slow.  The other was light and lean.  So not so spacious but fast.  Then a family walks by and we chat with them for a bit.  Nice folks.  Turns out they were from the Fat Catamaran.  Then another couple comes by and we chat with them for quite awhile.  They were from the Lean Cat and we are having dinner with them tonight.  You can’t make this stuff up.

Last big city details.  I acquired and installed a bilge pump switch.  The 10 year old one expired.  Then we went for ice cream and Internet.  After dinner it will be time to pick up Zack Hudgins our next leg crew.  He will be with us through Bora Bora.  And one or two of our hitchhikers… 🙂

Found Zack at the airport no problem.  We taxi back to Marina Papeete and get settled.  Guillaume joins us the next morning and we are off for Moorea.  No wind predicted but we got some anyway.  Beautiful sail back to Cook’s bay.  It’s Sunday and all the grocery stores are closed.  So we go out for Awesome Pizza at Allo Pizza!  Elegant solution to our problem.

Today 7/9 Guillaume goes ashore to get some computer/internet work done on assembling his documentary on climate change”s impact on the South Pacific.  Pretty interesting project.  Zack heads out for an extended bike ride.  I worked on finishing the installation of the VHF radio Zack brought down from Seattle.  And the swimming was great today!.  Most of the boats in the bay are gone again.  We have seen many of the faces of Cook’s Bay.  Nancy is about to sear tuna.  And we await our last crew member who should join us at 5pm.  Then we 5 depart on a floating “red-eye” for Huahine.

After an awesome seared tuna dinner we finished stowing the dinghy and John’s surfboard.  And we weigh anchor and go.  Guillaume gets some drone footage of our progress.  We clear the pass in the reef on our way out of Cook’s Bay as the sun retreats below the western horizon.  There is a bit of wind and the seas are smooth.  We are making 4 kts in 7 kts of wind on a lovely reach.  Mr Sulu the windvane is back on the job for the first time since we arrived in the Marquesas.  And he’s doing a fine job.

We’ve laid out the watch schedule.  I’m on til 9.  Zack til midnight.  Guillaume 12-3.  John 3-6. Then back to me.  I’m looking forward to it!

The suns gone down and here comes a moon.  It it not full then it doesn’t  miss it by much.  Like a searchlight on this dark night it is.  There is a bit of wind and we make about 3 kts through the night.  The sea is as calm as I’ve seen it in a long time.  Shortly after dawn the wind drops and our boatspeed is down to two knots or less.  Captain makes eggs pancakes and coffee.  And there was much rejoicing.  Our Canadian crewmember brought maple syrup from CAnAdA.  Thank you!  After breakfast  we swim in water two miles deep.  Nobody gets cramps and drowns.  Aye!  Then it is time to motor, make water and charge batteries.

The closer we draw to Huahine the more like glass the water becomes.  A beautiful day to have a quantity of fuel on board!

We enter a passe Fararea in the reef on the east side of the island.  A village is advertised on the South Shore.  We’ll they do have a restaurant.  But no grocery.  Dinner Out Tonight!



5 thoughts on “Welcome to the Society Islands

  1. Hi captain Chris and Nancy. Missing you two world travelers. Wagon wheel is coming up. We are going to miss you there too. Your accounts of your travels read like a great novel, a novel that I don’t want to set down, impossible to skip to the end. Cant wait for the next chapter. How many miles since you left seattle? Take care my friends.


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